Another day of gray skies, but at least the temperature was 72.
Joan hadn't been outside for three days, so at 1:15, I took her to Cafe Lokum. After parking the car and wheeling her there, I discovered it was closed.
We were close to Plac Wolnoscii, a place we haven't been to since last year, so I decided to take her for coffee at the place in front of the Plac. To our surprise, it had completely changed. Gone were the comfortable wicker tables and chairs and the couches they brought in two years ago. Before, about 40 people could be seated. Now, it is more like twenty. Worst of all, the old furniture was replaced with plastic, very uncomfortable chairs. This is not a place we will return to.
Cafe U Przyjaciol, nearby, was my final attempt for the day, and by that point, my options were running dangerously thin. What makes the place such a refuge is how entirely removed it feels from the noise and commotion of the city center. Even during peak hours, it remains surprisingly tranquil, offering a quiet, unhurried pace that is becoming harder to find.
I have brought Joan here on previous occasions, though the memory of those visits has slipped away, leaving the cafe as a completely new experience for her each time. From a practical standpoint, the location is ideal: accessible handicapped parking sits directly in front, saving us from a long or difficult walk. Once we settled in, Joan enjoyed a slice of rich chocolate cake with her coffee, while I opted for just a plain black coffee to keep things simple.
The location itself is discreet. Tucked away on a side street that no tourist map would ever highlight, the entrance requires walking through a passageway. That narrow corridor opens up into a hidden inner courtyard, completely sheltered from street traffic. Green plants line the patio, interspersed with a mix of vintage curiosities and artful objects that give the courtyard a distinctly bohemian character.
Inside, rather than standard open seating, every booth is individually framed by fabric hangings suspended from the ceiling. These partitions drape down to create private alcoves, offering a quiet, shielded space where you can sit comfortably and enjoy a long conversation without feeling exposed to the rest of the room.

